Kumasi - The Heart of the Ashanti
The capital of the Ashanti Region, the hilly, colonial city of Kumasi, is found one hundred or so miles north of Cape Coast (and about 35 km/20mi northwest of Lake Bosomtwe). After four wars with the British, the brave Ashanti finally conquered in 1900. However, the Ashanti culture is still strong and dominates other tribes in Ghana.
Historic Kumasi
It is said that Kumasi came into existence after Okonfo Anokye, the High Priest of Asantehene Osei Tutu, planted two seeds of the Kum Tree at two different locations. One seed started to grow but one died. Kum Asi (under the Kum tree) was built at the location of the growing tree and another town was later built at the other location and became known as Kum Awu (the Kum tree that died).
In 1687, legend has it that a golden stool and sword descended from heaven, establishing the Ashanti kingdom. Even now, the golden stool is kept secure and brought out only for special ceremonies--the sword is still visible, thrust into the ground at the Okomfo Anokye Teaching Hospital.
Almost none of the historic Kumasi is left today due to the burning down of the ancient Kum Asi by the British upon their victory in 1901. After years of struggle, Kumasi entered a time of plenty in the years after the second world war, as Ghana became an important source for the western world's need for its natural resources, such as Cocoa, Gold and Hard Wood. As all these are mostly found in the Ashanti Region the Asantehene and his people were able to profited, with the railway connecting the North and the South running through Kumasi, boosted its importance yet again. Kumasi soon became the central Market point in Ghana which in turn attracted people to migrate from all over the country to settle. Slowly, Kumasi grew into the second largest city in Ghana.
Getting To Kumasi
International flights to Ghana terminate in Accra. Flights from the International Airport in Accra to Kumasi are in the morning and afternoon on the two carriers: CitiLink and Antrak. The flight is about 45 minutes long, limited on luggage allowance. To travel by road to Kumasi from Accra you will need to allow 6 hours travel time. Bus service is available by O.A. and STC, two private bus lines.
Getting Around in Kumasi
In Kumasi, you will enjoy walking around taking in the sights and sounds, but if you are travelling a long distance cabs are cheap and plentiful. Cheaper yet are tro-tros (overflowing vans), the routes can be a bit tricky though, ask someone in the lorry park before you hop in.
Things-To-See in Kumasi
Thriving Kumasi Kejetia Market
Kejetia Market is West Africa's largest, covering over 24 acres in the center of the city with thousands of vendors. Traders from around the country and region come to ply their wares. Stalls are loosely organized by the type of goods they sell, with produce, plastic and metal goods, and fabric occupying separate areas. The walkways between stalls are crowded, and often traffic seems to come to a standstill. Most of the goods in the market aren't aimed at tourists, but that's no reason not to visit. It's a fascinating glimpse into Ghanaian culture and a chance to see foods and products that you would otherwise not.
One of the most fascinating parts of the Kejetia Market is the section with tailors and shoemakers, lined up in a row working on ancient sewing machines and making shoes from recycled leather. If you know anyone who lives in Kumasi, or befriend anyone, ask if you can go to the market with them, it's amazing how much more you'll learn if you're with someone who knows all of the ins and outs.
Nearby Crafts Villages
For a real treat, visit the crafts villages that surround Kumasi in a loop. Take a taxi on the 45-minute drive to three rustic villages: Bonwire, where skilled men weave multicolored kente cloth on large wooden looms; Ahwiaa, famous for its mahogany wood carvers; and Ntonso, where the vivid adinkra cloth is stamped with special symbols sacred to the Ashanti people. Although slightly touristy, no place encapsulates Ghana's vigorous culture as well as these humble hamlets.
Kumasi Cultural Center
The Kumasi Centre of National Culture is located in the Kumasi city center, about 5 minutes walk from the Bantama Royal Mausoleum. The Center provides a good account of the rich Ghanaian culture, and also provides evidence of the Asante Kingdom's eminent past. It houses the Prempeh II Jubilee museum, which provides a fascinating collection of Asante's history such as memorabilia of Okomfo Anokye.
Kumasi Fort and Military Museum
Kumasi Fort and Military Museum houses equipments used in the British-Asante war of 1900, World War II and Ghana's military history. Located at the heart of the ancient Asante Kingdom; it is also a walking distance from the Prempeh museum, Kumasi Cultural Center, Okomfo Anokye Sword, Kumasi Zoo and the Kumasi Central Market.
Manhyia Palace
The Manhyia Palace is-the official residence of the Asante king. It features a large courtyard where statues and monuments of the past great kings and queens of the Asante Kingdom are displayed. The Manhyia Palace Museum is also located at the palace.
Manhyia Palace Museum
The Manhyia Palace Museum provides a insight into Asante's culture and traditions, and the history of the Asante Kingdom. Museum visitors also have the opportunity of seeing a photograph of the Golden Stool, the official stool of the Asante King, which it said was conjured from skies about 300 years ago by the great legendary priest Okomfo Anokye. It is believed to be the strength of the Asante people and it is so sacred that not even the King is allowed to sit on it.
